BoF 500 | 10 Next Generation Stars That Will Inspire You
Who are the top designers, executives, editors, fashion-tech pioneers, models, muses and other catalysts shaping the global fashion business?
For the last five years, The Business of Fashion have identified the industry’s power players and gathered them together in one virtual community. I always find myself so incredibly inspired and motivated by the talent that fills this list each year and feel motivated to think differently, push myself beyond what’s comfortable. This year I’ve selected ten recipients of #BoF500 2017 that I think you will be equally inspired by.
Elaine Welteroth, Editor-in-Chief at Teen Vogue
“The youngest person to be appointed editor-in-chief of a Conde Nast publication in it’s 107 year history. She proved her potential through Teen Vogue’s burgeoning digital audience figures.” In the past three years since she was promoted from Beauty Editor to Editor-in-Chief of Teen Vogue, 29 year old Welteroth has been responsible for the gradual yet radical evolution of the magazine, shifting it from a glossy mag focused on beauty, fashion and young Hollywood starlets, to shining a spotlight on young girls speaking openly on politics, business, religion and, yes, still fashion. She is giving the mic back to teenage and giving credit where credit’s due.
Lotta Volkova, Stylist for Vetements, Balenciaga
“The stylist of the moment. Volkova has been integral to the creative vision of Vetements, Sies Marjan and the newly reborn Balenciaga.” As an in-house stylist for Vetements and Balenciaga, her aesthetic, which takes style cues from post-Soviet street culture, alt-punk and fetishism, has proved to be one of the most influential in the world. She left her home country of Russia at 17 to attend Central Saint Martins in London and was introduced to her closest collaborator Demna Gvasalia through a mutual friend at a party. Gvasalia showed her a look book of an early Vetements collection and Lotta was unimpressed by the styling, to which Gvasalia replied, “Why don’t you style it then?”
Leandra Medine, Founder of ManRepeller.Com
“The American fashion blogger and author has won a loyal following for her humorous, witty observations on “serious” fashion.” But perhaps what differentiates Man Repeller most is the way that Median marries impeccable high fashion aesthetics with a comedic approach. In recent months, Medine has gone on the record as saying that she aims to shift the tone of her output, telling Vanity Fair, “I’ve been trying to do more of the think-essay thing. I think my readership has evolved with me, maybe in the way Miley Cyrus’s fans are growing up with her.”
Class Bird, Photographer
“Photographer Cass Bird, known for her exploration of the feminine identity, this American photographer has shot campaigns for Jimmy Choo and Calvin Klein, but it’s the way her portraits of artists, actors and musicians that have challenged and expanded ideas of feminity, masculinity and beauty that makes her a game changer.” Her photographs are in The Brooklyn Museum and The Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery, as well as featured in American and British Vogue, The New Yorker and Porter Magazine. She lives in New York with her wife and two children.
Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur, Mansur Gavriel
“The designers behind last year’s mid-price bucket bags that generated waiting lists the world over, are now expanding into footwear.” The design duo behind Mansur Gavriel are responsible for creating the first post-recession it-bag. Launched in 2012 with just two styles, Gavriel and Mansur have a 100 percent sell through rate at places like Barney’s and Bergdorf Goodman. Their debut collection hit stores in early June 2013 and within weeks blogger Garance Doré professed her love for the large black bucket bag lined in a shade of red the duo called Flamma. By July both the bucket and tote had generated long waiting lists. By New York Fashion Week that September, Mansur Gavriel had become the bag of choice for fashion editors and street style stars.
Alexandra Gordienko, Founder of Marfa Journal
“As the founder of Marfa Journal, Gordienko has developed her Central Saint Martins graduation project into a full-time creative pursuit and has served as a creative consultant to Kanye West’s clothing line.” She began Marfa Journal as a final school project at Central Saint Martins. Filled with provocative, digitally rendered imagery and conveyed through a personal perspective, the publication is less of a disposable publication than an artistic keepsake itself. It’s now stocked at indie bookstores and concept stores all over the world and Gordienko is said to be looking to expand her project into different channels, growing Marfa as an artistic, cross-cultural endeavour.
Adwoa Aboah, Model and Activist
“The model is much more than one of fashion’s most striking faces: her Gurls Talk project inspires discussion of feminist issues.” British model Adwoa Aboah worked as both a stylist and creative director before prompting an industry-wide intake of breath after Tim Walker shot her for the cover of Vogue Italia. Her frank and honest account of her battle with addiction and depression along with her Gurls Talk project, which gives young women a platform to discuss feminist issues, have made her one of the industry’s most courageous voices. o date she has starred in global campaigns for some of fashion’s biggest names, including Dior, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and H&M.
Gosha Rubchinskiy, Designer
“His gritty approach to fashion has made designer Gosha Rubchinskiy a poster child for post-Soviet youth culture and his low-key graphic tee shirt business is one of the most sought after street fashion brands of today.” Rubchinskiy launched his self-funded eponymous fashion business in 2008. Despite no formal fashion training and scarce financial resources, with the help of friends Rubchinskiy rented show spaces like sports stadiums, which would hold up to 600 attendees. In 2012, he met Comme des Garçons president and Dover Street Market founder, Adrian Joffe, who wanted to stock Rubchinskiy’s products in his store. Today, Gosha Rubchinskiy has about 150 stockists worldwide and the designer, together with friends Demna Gvasalia and stylist Lotta Volkova, is credited with challenging the status quo around fashion design.
Camille Cherriere, Blogger
” The half-french, half-english model is known for her sharp and irreverartn take on fashion and her collaborations with brands including Chloe.” She is candid about the role of fashion bloggers today, being one herself. Born to an english mother and a french father, she grew up in Paris in a house full of intellectuals and a career in the creative industry was not encouraged. She did a law degree and practiced as a lawyer until 2010 when she finally quit her job to follow her dream of being in fashion. She obtained a fashion writing role at Net-A-Porter, and later MatchesFashion.com. Today, she is outspoken about the realities of blogging and advocates for disclosure on paid content and brand partnerships.